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Auschwitz Birkenau

On the 13th of April, 8.30 in the morning, a minibus came to pick us up. We arrived at the town of Oświęcim after a 45 min drive. I was really looking forward to this tour, but little did i expect what i saw and heard to be so heart wrenching.

Auschwitz was established in 1940 by the Nazis and was originally intended for Polish political prisoners. It was built to terrorise and exteminate Poles. As time passed, the Nazis began to deport people from all over Europe, mainly Jews - citizens of various countries. Soviet prisoners-of-war, Gypsies, Czechs, Yugoslavs, Frenchmen, Austrians, Germans and others where also among the prisoners of Auschwitz.

As the number of inmates grew, the Auschwitz camp also grew, until it became a gigantic factory of death. Auschwitz I spawned Auschwitz II - Birkenau, a death camp that was more than 20 times bigger. The entire Auschwitz complex grew to include more than 40 branches.

The main gate of Auschwitz I, meaning "work brings freedom". This was hardly the case. Prisoners passed through this gate every morning, returning 12 hrs later. It is also important to realise how terrible conditions were for the prisoners. Of the many many people sent to the camp, only 25 - 30% became prisoners. The others were sent to the gas chambers immediately. This does not mean that they were excused from death however. The intention was for them to contribute to Nazi war effort before dying. There was no date of release.

Our tour guide for the morning

Picture depicting the camp orchestra playing, so that the thousands of prisoners could march quickly. This way the SS could count them more efficiently.

Double electric fences surrounded the entire compound. There was no way of escape from within the camp.

Auschwitz was the biggest Nazi concentration camp for Poles and prisoners from other countries. The idea was to isolate them, break them down mentally and physically. Extermination was to be carried out through several means. Hunger, exhaustion, criminal experiments and of course individual and mass executions. The camp was also the biggest center for the mass extermination of European Jews. As i mentioned, the majority of people sent here were gassed on arrival. These people comprises of the weak, the elderly and also women and children. If you were seen as unfit for work, you were gassed. The Auschwitz - Birkenau State Museum states the number of victims as around 1.1million.

The roll call ground.

As the name suggests, this was where the SS made sure each prisoner came back after work. This however also became a torture in itself, often lasting several hours. Prisoners has to stand in all weather conditions. Public executions also took place here. You can see the collective gallows (where the 2 people are). Family members of prisoners who tried to escape where publicly executed here as well, to deter others from trying.

Jews who arrived here were convinced that they had been deported for "resettlement" in Eastern Europe. Many were deceived by promise of land and work in fictitious factories. They brought with them their most treasured possessions. Little did they know that they would meet their end here.

Block 4 was one of the several blocks housing artifacts. The museum also shows many pictures and items that belonged to the victims. We were not allowed to take pictures from inside the buildings. The few following pictures were taken from other online sources.

Room full of Shoes

Room full of suitcases. They each had a name

Prosthetic legs

Room full of real human hair.
Picture taken from http://www.scrapbookpages.com/auschwitzscrapbook/tour/Auschwitz1/Auschwitz11.html

I was shocked when i entered the room full of human hair. After they were screened and separated, those non-fit-for-work people were told to go to a changing room to strip naked. They were told that they needed to be disinfected. They were then herded and locked into a "shower room" with fake showers attached to the ceilings. They had no clue what lies ahead because disinfecting was common procedure in resettlement. Canisters of Zyclone-B would then be dropped through hatches at the top. Some died immediately, some died slow painful death. Within 20 minutes, everyone was dead. After gold tooth fillings, earrings, and hair, yes hair was removed, the bodies were taken to incinerators. And what was the hair for? The Nazis used human hair to make blankets for their own soldiers. When Soviet troops liberated the camp in 1945, they found 7000 kg of human hair. This was the little that the Nazis had no time to get rid off.

Cruel sterilization experiments were conducted on women. The idea was to find out the best way to conduct mass sterilization of a people, thereby exterminating the race entirely. Some children, especially twins, were also subjected to experiments.

Guard tower and the Halt sign

Prisoners lived in appalling sanitory conditions. In addition, hard work and hunger caused complete physical exhaustion. Some women weighed only 23 - 30kg. They were not given a moment's rest. Constant harassment and beatings increased the death rate. Hard labour was in fact, used as another efficient means of killing prisoners. Prisoners worked to produce coal, arms and chemical products. They also built other compounds, digged trenches, did metalwork and worked the mines.

The Execution Wall, next to block 11, the block of death. Thousands of prisoners were executed naked here.

In the death block was a summary court and different kinds of cellars. There were Suffocation rooms, starvation rooms and standing cellars, where 4 prisoners were locked in standing position in a 90X90cm room.

Prisoners where hung from this pole by their hands that were behind their back. Their feet were off the ground. Flogging also took place here.

The guard post

With rats and insects abound, illnesses and epidemics spread quickly. It is no wonder the hospital could not handle the large number of sick. Those deemed to have little chance of a quick recovery were sent straight to the gas chambers, or simply murdered in the hospital.

Despite the harsh conditions, the prisoners still managed to conspire against the SS. Many were able to establish contact with neighbouring inhabitants to smuggle food or medicine in.

Another form of resistance were efforts to tell the world about the atrocities committed by the Nazis. List of names or prisoners and SS men, as well as evidence of their crime, reached the outside world.

Gallows

Sealed entrance to underground bunkers in case of bombing raids

Crematorium, later converted into a temporary gas chamber

Entrance to the Crematorium

The next 3 indoor pictures were taken from an online source:

The Gas Chamber

Furnaces

2-3 bodies were placed on the slides at 1 time.

Pictures taken from http://simplethinking.com/home/auschwitz_1.htm

Crematorium 1

The trees seem to weep for the dead

After walking through Auschwitz I, we hopped back onto the minibus, which brought us to Birkenau. Auschwitz II Birkenau is part of Auschwitz, 3 km away, but is 2o times bigger.


When i arrived, i was stunned by the size of this place.

Birkenau, unlike Auschwitz 1, is not a museum, but a memorial. You won't find many signs and exhibits, just a massive reminder of the suffering.

This camp covered a total of 175 hectares. 1 hectare is 100m x 100m. It contained over 3oo buildings.

A railway track ran straight through, so that prisoners were brought right into the camp. This is also where the "screening" took place.

The railway of death

When the war was almost over, the Nazis blew up the gas chambers and crematoria II and III, attempting to cover up their criminal activities. The ruins of the crematorium remains.

Birkenau was a muddy and water logged place. Prisoners dug these trenches to channel out water. Working in the trenches such hard work because they where exposed to the cold weather. It was almost a death sentence in itself.

These holes were toilet seats. 200 people can use it at one time, but according to my guide, most never had time. The entire camp was given only 3o minutes in the morning to do any washing up. Some prisoners eventually lost their mind and was reduced to behaving like animals. They didn't bother about washing their faces and defecated in their clothing. Breaking the prisoners down was exactly what the SS intended.

Wooden bunk beds, up to 10 people slept in 1 level. At its peak, there were 100 000 prisoners in Birkenau

Reconstructed wooden barracks.. as far as the eyes can see

Only the foundations remained of many of the wooden buildings

Electric fences separated the male and female areas

Guard towers


This video was taken on top of the main SS guard house. Shows the size of this massive camp

A huge huge camp

Heavy hearts

I didn't know what expression was appropriate

1.1 million human beings..

On the way back on the bus

Seeing the grotesque images and learning about such cruel acts of violence did disturb me, but i guess what hit me the most was the fact that man can actually be capable of such evil.

I tell myself that i cannot allow myself to forget what i saw that day.

**Much of the information in this entry was gotten from the Aushwitz Birkenau Guide book i bought that day**

Sungha Jung

Krakow

We took a night train from Budapest to Krakow, the plan was to save on accommodation and also to arrive early in the morning so we don't waste day time travelling. But it turns out that there's no student discount for trains that travel between countries.

This being my first time taking a real train (excluding the MRT or German high tech kind).. we didn't really know where to go, we didnt even know how to read the tickets haha.. See Wei Sing in the background asking the yellow vest guy.. who didn't help much..

But yes we finally found the carriage that our we were supposed to be in.. and found our cabins. Do they call them cabins?? Anyway they're kinda like cruise cabins.. only shakier, noisier and without attached toilets =)

Narrow hallways with obiang red flooring

Tiny cabin for 6..

The highest tier was a little too high and scary..

So i opened up the 2nd tier and made myself comfortable..

And after a long long wait.. and countless announcements in Hungarian.. the train is finally on its way!!

And so we tried to get as much sleep as we possibly can on a train.. while trying to use use our blankets in a cabin that was getting quite cold..

6am in Krakow.. We've arrived!

City intro:
Krakow is one of the oldest and largest cities in Poland. It is in the south of the country and the River Vistula runs through it. It has a population of about 800000 people. A Polish classmate of ours in TKK tells us that Krakow is NOT pronounced as K-RA-COW.. but should be pronounced as K-RA-COU.. It is common also to spell it as Cracow.

Proof that i'm in Krakow haha..

Anyway we needed to do layer up in the train station coz we weren't really expecting Krakow to be 10 degrees colder than Budapest.. It was Easter Sunday morning, so the tourist info wasn't open.. but we found a simple map nonetheless and made our way (walking distance) to Atlantis Hostel! It was kinda early, so we nua-ed a bit before heading out for breakfast in the Old Town (Stare Miasto). The shops outside the Old Town were mostly closed for the Easter weekend..

The first of MANY churches we saw.. there were at least 15 churches in the Old Town alone! Most of them were Catholic churches..

We tried some Polish pierogi at the dessert place where we had breakfast.. They are kinda similar to dumplings.. the Polish put all kinds of things inside.. cheese, potatoes, mushrooms, meat and even strawberries! But hopefully not altogether =)

SS Peter and Paul Church

St Andrew's Church

This carriage turns back into a pumpkin at midnight

A cute old couple busking in the streets

And here we are.. the Main Square or Rynek Glowny! It's apparently the largest and most impressive square in all of Eastern Europe.. and it is really quite nice i must say. Everything.. the buildings, the markets, the horses, the Al Fresco cafes and the people. You know a happy place when you visit one!

St Mary's Basilica in the background.

Every hour in the taller tower, a fireman makes a bugle call in memory of the event when Krakow was invaded by the Tartans. The fireman had spotted the enemy in the horizon and sounded the alarm. He saved the city but was shot by an arrow in the neck while playing his instrument. That is why the bugle call ends abruptly.. =)

Inside the St Mary's Basilica

Easter market selling traditional handicraft and Polish food etc..

Painted glassware

We bought one of those things that were being grilled.. and had no idea what we ate.. until the next day.. when we realised it was a type of cheese =)

A very popular food stall.. we bought a yummy oily pork knuckle from here

In this little square in the Old Town.. there were photos of the Holocaust being displayed..

They told a story.. but the articles were all written in Polish.. even though i can't understand the words, but i can surely see the expression on these faces

No idea what this little fountain is about.. but i've seen it on a postcard.. so it might be of importance!

The Florianska Gate

In the past, the whole of Krakow was surrounded by city walls. Florianska gate is the entrance for all visiting the King of Poland. From the Florianska gate the Royal Road starts, cutting through the Main Square and ending in Wawel Hill.

Theatre.. (i hope i didn't get it wrong!)

Wawel Castle from below.. we're left the Castle for Tuesday

We decided to take a walk by the River Vistula since we had time. By now, the midday sun had warmed up everything, and we enjoyed a nice relaxing stroll.. taking in the sights and the sun.. Of course this also meant that it was time for us to pose for some shots..

The day ended nicely with sumptious dinner. We shared 1 soup, 2 appetisers, 3 main courses in an atas restaurant.. for only 10 euros each. Krakow must be one of the cheapest cities i've visited whilst in Europe. Actually on the whole, Krakow's cost of living is quite similar to Singapore's.. some things are cheaper.. some things are more expensive.. but in general yes..

The next day was taken up by 2 things. We booked tours to Auschwitz and also to the Wieliczka Salt Mine. I've decided to do a separate post for Auschwitz coz the intensity of my experience demands for it (look out for next entry).. so imagine that it's about 5pm on Monday and we're at the Salt Mine =)

This historic salt mine in Wieliczka is the only site in the world where mining as continued since the middle ages. It is big.. i mean huge.. i mean MASSIVE. It spans 9 levels and excavations in total stretch for 300 km underground. The deepest point is 327 metres. We only went down 3 storeys to a depth of 130m or so. Thankfully the lift was working. The guide told us not to get lost.. coz they might take 1 year to find you. Wieliczka is included in UNESCO's 1st World List of Cultural and Natural Heritage sites. The place is quite touristy actually.. haha.. but it's still quite cool nonetheless..

Arriving at the site

Visitor building.. you can see the lift shaft at the top

We had to walk down about 100 metres..

They have names for different chambers.. and shafts.. just like above ground.
Hey Toni.. this picture was taken especially for u.. =)

Our guide (the one with the white hard ha).. explaining to us that the white stuff on the ceiling is crystallized salt.. Anyway i scratched and tasted the salty walls..

Going deeper and deeper

The mine is filled with beautifully decorate and lit caverns and lakes. Many statues and carvings were made by miners in the past. What i can't figure out is.. why are miners carving stuff?! Shouldn't they be digging??

Everything is made of Salt Rock.. even the statues and chandeliers you'll see

Models illustrating how mining used to take place

Horses were brought underground into stables. They drew carriages and operated one of the earliest elevators! 4 Horses would go round and round pulling and turning this big wooden thingy.. lifting loads up to the surface.. =) These horses never got to see daylight by the way.. they worked underground till they died.

In this chamber, the guide pushed a button and on came lights and music.. haha super touristy.. 7 dwarves digging in the mine.. =)

The most impressive thing in the mine was the Cathedral. It took 30 years to carve out this cavern, and 3 miners took 70 years to decorate it.. Look at the carvings!


A choir was practising while we were there.. =)

Scenes of the New Testament carved on the walls

The Last Supper.. out of salt rock

And just to illustrate how big the mine is.. there is an underground ballroom, underground restaurant, and a bar. But we can't enter coz they were preparing for a function..

We took 40 seconds on a 3 storied lift to get to the surface.. =)

Good to breathe fresh air and get sunlight.. =)

It was late in the evening by the time we returned from the mine.. and we decided to take a walk into where the old Jewish Ghettos were. This was where the Jews were relocated during the war.. (To know more.. go to http://www.actionreinhardcamps.org/occupation/krakow%20ghetto.html)

The sun set rather quickly, this neighbourhood was kinda rough, and besides, we didn't have specific places we wanted to visit.. so we didn't spend a long time..

Crossing the bridge to the other district

The non-touristy Krakow

Old abandoned railway..

Oscar Schindler saved 1200 Jews from the Nazi gas chambers.. Inspiring the movie "Schindler's List"

The site of the Original Schindler's factory.. Now a war museum remembering Krakow under the Nazis..

Dinner was at an Italian place.. we had pasta of course haha.. and i washed it down with Zyviec... a Polish beer.. i like!

Tuesday arrived! Our plan was to conquer Wawel Castle, walk through the Old Town to buy some souveniors and gifts and lastly to spend the rest of the day shopping at Galleria Krakowska.. a huge shopping centre next to the railway station..

Entrance to Wawel Castle, the most important monument of Poland

The Cathedral and Royal Chamber

The Courtyard.. remnants of old buildings still visible

Flowers blooming =)

View over the Castle walls

Heading down the spiral staircase to the Dragon's Lair

The Dragon's Lair! Basically an underground cave kinda thing that looks really cool.. if i was a dragon i would want to live in such a cave

And here is the fire breathing dragon.. just outside the lair. It breathes fire when u sms a number haha.. Super touristy..

Back to the Rynek Glowny.. The Easter Market is being torn down, but the indoor market is now open!

Gifts and souveniors for sale.. the most pretty things must be the elaborately engraved chess sets..

Art seller.. we walked closer and found several pieces of gay art.. that totally put me off.. haha

We spent about 4 hours in Galleria Krakowska. I bought a pair of pants, we had lunch, went to Carrefour to stock up on supplies and then went to have ice cream before heading back to Atlantis.

But the day was not over yet.. The 3 of us went to this Irish pub at night to catch the Liverpool - Chelsea match.. which ended 4 - 4. It was such an incredible match that i almost died. I also gained the glamourous honour of being Wei Sing's funniest Liverpool fan friend. I'm so proud. Oh and i had another Zyviec.. I like this Polish beer =)